Frank Bruni, the New York Times retiring and superb food critic, on how to navigate a menu:

Scratch off the appetizers and entrees that are most like dishes you’ve seen in many other restaurants, because they represent this one at its most dutiful, conservative and profit-minded. The chef’s heart isn’t in them.

Scratch off the dishes that look the most aggressively fanciful. The chef’s vanity — possibly too much of it — spawned these.

Then scratch off anything that mentions truffle oil.

Choose among the remaining dishes.

If you’re an NYC denizen, or heading for a visit, the list of restaurants at the end of the article is an excellent place to start.

Also, anyone willing to FedEx me a dozen Shake Shack burgers will have a new bestest-best friend.